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The Enmore Halter Dress + Top pattern offers three cup sizes, but there are instances when you might still require a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) to get the perfect fit. Maintaining the design integrity of the pattern is crucial, so after performing the FBA, you'll need to reposition the dart to preserve the intended silhouette. Today, Lyndsey is here to walk us through her process of adjusting her Enmore muslin.
For my Enmore, which is a halter-style dress, I selected pattern size 14 based on my full bust measurement of 41 inches. My upper bust measurement is 37 inches, so I needed the D-cup shelf bra piece. After fitting the shelf bra, I realized I still required an additional 3/4-inch FBA. I adjusted the pattern piece using the standard slash-and-spread method, similar to what I did for the Cinema Dress.
With the shelf bra fitting well, I knew the dress/top front would also need the same adjustment. However, the front pattern piece lacks a dart, and I wanted to avoid adding one due to the FBA. To tackle this, I executed the FBA while using dart manipulation to redistribute the fullness elsewhere.
Let’s go over the steps for a Full Bust Adjustment. First, add 1/2-inch seam allowances to the neck, armscye, and side seams. The images provided here are illustrative and not to scale.
Next, we’ll add four guidelines for the FBA. Mark the bust apex—this is represented by the green dot in the image. I determined my apex by fitting the shelf bra. From the apex, draw a horizontal line (pink) extending to the side seam. Then, draw a vertical line (black) parallel to the center front from the apex to the bottom hem. Draw another line (purple) from the apex to the armscye, about one-third up from the side seam. Finally, draw a diagonal line (blue) from the black line to the center front in the bottom right corner.
Now, cut along these guidelines. Start by cutting up the black line through the apex and continue along the purple line, but don’t cut through the seam allowance. This creates a hinge to allow the pieces to separate. Next, cut along the pink line from the side seam to the apex, but stop just short of the apex point to keep the pieces connected. Lastly, cut along the blue line and adjust the pieces so the bottom hem aligns evenly. Spread the pieces apart by the required width—in my case, 3/4 inch.
Afterward, slide paper underneath the adjusted pattern pieces and secure them with tape. Typically, you’d tape under all open areas during an FBA, but we’ll leave the side dart untouched because we’ll manipulate it next.
Darts remove excess fabric and give shape to garments. Dart manipulation involves moving existing darts around the pattern to achieve a different look without altering the amount of ease. Begin by drawing a new line from the bust point to where you want the new dart to sit. In this case, I moved the dart to the neckline.
Cut along this new line from the neckline to the bust point, but don’t cut through the bust point itself. Flatten out the side seam dart and tape it closed. With the side seam restored to its original form, place paper beneath the open area and secure the pattern.
The new dart would normally appear at the neckline, but I didn’t want a visible dart on the front of my dress. Since the neckline is already gathered, I decided to incorporate the extra fullness into the gathers instead of creating a dart. This approach provides the necessary width and shaping for my full bust.
Once the adjustments were complete, the muslin showed excellent results. There were no pull lines or tightness across the bust, and the hem remained level and parallel to the ground both in front and back.
Here are some photos showing the final fit:
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As you can see, the FBA was successful, and the dress fits beautifully. If you're working with a similar pattern, remember that careful planning and execution can ensure both comfort and style. Happy sewing!
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There's something truly satisfying about achieving the perfect fit in your sewing projects. Whether you’re working with a halter dress like the Enmore or another style, understanding adjustments like the FBA can make all the difference. For those who enjoy the creative process of sewing, exploring techniques like dart manipulation opens up endless possibilities for customizing patterns to suit individual body shapes. If you have any questions or need further clarification on any step, feel free to reach out—I’m always happy to help fellow sewists refine their skills.