the fitting room: enmore full bust adjustment

Given that the Enmore is a halter dress, I went by my full bust measurement (41 inches) to pick the size 14 pattern. My upper bust measurement is 37 inches, which meant I needed the D-cup shelf bra piece. After fitting the shelf bra, I realized I still required an additional 3/4-inch FBA. I made the adjustment using the standard slash and spread method (you can refer to the FBA example on the Cinema Dress).

With the shelf bra fitting well, I knew the dress/top front would need the same adjustment. However, the front pattern piece doesn’t have a dart, and I wanted to avoid adding one because of the FBA. To tackle this issue, I did the FBA and used dart manipulation to redistribute the fullness elsewhere.

Steps for a Full Bust Adjustment

To begin with, I added 1/2-inch seam allowances to the neck, armhole, and side seams (the images for this example aren't to scale).

Next, we'll add four guidelines for the FBA. Start by marking the bust apex, shown as the green dot in this photo. I located my apex during the shelf bra fitting. Once the apex is marked, draw a horizontal line 1 from the apex to the side seam (pink line). Then, draw line 2 parallel to the center front from the apex to the bottom hem (black). Draw line 3 from the apex to the armhole, about 1/3 up from the side seam (purple line). Finally, draw line 4 from line 2 to the center front (blue line) in the bottom right corner.

Now, we'll cut along these guidelines. First, cut up line 2 (black line), through the apex, and up line 3 (purple line) without cutting through the seam allowance. This creates a hinge to allow the pieces to spread apart. Next, cut along line 1 (pink line) from the side seam to the apex, but don’t cut through the apex point, leaving a hinge to keep the pieces connected. Lastly, cut along line 4 (blue line) and shift the piece so the bottom hem aligns with the hem on the left side of the pattern piece. Spread the pieces apart by the required width; for my adjustment, I needed to add 3/4 inch.

Afterward, place paper beneath the pattern pieces and tape them to secure the new shape. In a standard FBA, you'd tape underneath all open areas. But since we're leaving the side dart free for dart manipulation, we won't tape there.

Dart Manipulation

Darts take in excess fabric and provide shape to garments. Dart manipulation involves moving the existing darts in a sewing pattern to achieve a different look without altering the overall ease. When you manipulate a dart, the amount of ease remains unchanged.

First, draw a new line from the bust point to the desired location of the new dart. In this case, I’m rotating the dart to the neckline.

Next, cut along the line from the neckline to the bust point, but don’t cut through the bust point. Close the side seam dart and tape it shut. The side seam is now back to its original shape!

Finally, place paper under the open area and tape the pattern to secure the new shape.

The neckline would be the new location for the dart. However, I didn’t want a dart on the front of my dress! The neckline is already gathered, so I decided to ease the additional fullness into the neckline gathering instead of sewing a dart. This approach provides the extra width and shaping I need for my full bust.

Final Fit

As you can see in the muslin photos below, the FBA was successful. There are no draglines or tightness across the full bust. The hem is level and parallel to the ground in both the front and back.

While working on this project, I also found myself reflecting on how much easier it makes me feel to customize patterns to fit my body better. It’s rewarding to see how these adjustments translate into a more comfortable and flattering fit. Sometimes, it’s the small details like this that truly make a difference in the final outcome.

Whether you’re new to making these adjustments or an experienced sewer, remember that practice makes perfect. Don’t hesitate to experiment and try different techniques until you find what works best for you. Happy sewing!

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